Glazing using Brush-on Glazes
Glazing, as the final step in the ceramic process, can be both exciting and daunting. With so many options available, it's easy to feel lost in a sea of choices. Personally, I've got over 50 glazes in my studio, although I tend to stick to just a handful of favorites. Here's a helpful tip I've picked up: simplicity is key, especially for beginners. Start with essential colors like clear, white, and a few classics such as blue, green, or pink. Keeping your selection basic can save you from decision fatigue. Another tip is to plan your glazing ahead of time. Seriously, it makes the whole process a lot smoother and more enjoyable. Instead of scrambling at the last minute, think about your glaze choices right from the beginning of your project. Trust me, it's worth it!
Brush-on Glazing
There are a couple of different techniques for glazing ceramics- brush-on, dip & pour, spray-on, etc. But today we are going to focus on brush-on glazing. In my opinion, it's the simplest, cleanest, and most beginner-friendly technique of the three.
Basic materials needed for Brush-on Glazing:
- Bisque-fired Ceramics: I prefer glazing ceramics that have been bisque-fired rather than glazing them while they're still greenware. It gives me better control and makes the whole process feel less intimidating and more likely to succeed.
- Glazes: Glazes come in various formulations, but for brush application, go for ones specifically designed for it. These glazes are made to be easy to brush on smoothly and evenly. They usually come in pint-sized jars or larger one-gallon bottles. Here are some brands I've used and enjoyed- Amaco, Mayco, Spectrum.
- Brushes: Soft, absorbent brushes are best for achieving a smooth application. I love using thick, fluffy fan brushes because they hold a good amount of glaze and make brushing a breeze. My personal favorite is the Mayco no. 8 fan brush. Bamboo brushes and Chinese or Japanese calligraphy brushes work great for smaller areas and detailed work. Hake brushes are another excellent option—they're absorbent and fluffy, perfect for holding plenty of glaze for easy application.
Technique:
Preparation: Start by thoroughly cleaning your ceramic piece to remove any dust or residues. A quick idea is to clean the bisque surface with a damp sponge to get rid of any dust or uneven surfaces. This is to make sure that the glaze adheres to the clay surface and is not repelled by any dust or oil on the surface. Also, while cleaning the pot with a damp sponge, check to see if there are any sharp edges, clay crumbs. If there are, use a sanding pad dipped in water to get rid of the sharpness/ unevenness. These sharp edges will get worse after glazing and vitrification.
Selection of Glazes: Choose your glaze colors based on your design and desired outcome. Another thing to keep in mind when picking your glaze is the surface treatment of your pot. If you have a textured surface, you would want to use a glaze which shows that texture. Celadon glazes work well for textured surfaces. Celadon is a general term used for translucent glazes which do not completely cover the texture. If it's a plain surface without texture, you can use any type of glaze.
Application: Dip your brush into the glaze, ensuring it is well-coated but not overloaded. An easy tip would be- Apply the glaze onto the surface with smooth, even strokes. Well it's not that easy to execute- the bisque ware is very absorbent so it's difficult to get smooth and even strokes. So here's what you can do- do not try to cover the entire pot surface in one brush load of glaze. Apply glaze in smaller sections making sure there's no pooling of glazes in one area. Do not dry brush. As soon as the glaze dries out on the brush, go back and load up the brush again.
Layering: Most glazes will have instructions on how many coats should be applied. I usually go with 2 coats for 'celadon' glazes but remember my 'coats' can be thicker or thinner than your coats. So the results can be different. Allow each layer of glaze to dry before applying subsequent layers. In any case, it's good practice to make a test tile with any new glaze you buy before applying it on your pot.
Cleanup: Make sure to clean the base of the pot before placing it on the kiln shelf. If you want to glaze the base of tor pot, then you have to place them on stilts in the kiln. This is because, during glaze firing, the glaze melts nd fuses to then pot surface giving us the glossy surface. If there's glaze on the base, it will fuse to the kiln shelf destroying your pot and the kiln shelf.
I've tried to cover as much of the process as I could in an email. But it's important to keep in mind that every glaze behaves differently, and your results may vary based on your technique and firing process. The more pots you make, the better you'll understand your glazes and how to work with them.
If you're interested, I have some videos on my YouTube channel where you can see these steps in action. I'll include the links below for easy access.
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